What Does A Derma Roller Do?

Break Through The Barriers & Boost Your Skincare Game

The quest for great skin leads us to interesting places. Some folks are willing to try putting bee venom on their faces to stimulate collagen production, while others find themselves Google searching places they can pick up snail slime to reduce free radicals. At Donaldson Plastic Surgery, we pride ourselves on staying on top of budding beauty trends before they become mainstream so we can help our patients determine if something is right for them, wrong for them or just outright wacky! 

One skincare “fad” that has surfaced in recent years is derma rolling. We feel comfortable in saying that this one actually works but it does depend on your expectations and what exactly you’re trying to accomplish with the handheld device. 

What Actually Happens When You Roll 

Dermarolling works by using a system of tiny stainless steel or titanium needles to glide over the outermost layer of skin and penetrate the surface. The micro-channels created by the needles allow for topical medical-grade skincare to penetrate past the first layer, making them more effective

Get More Out Of Your Skin Care Products 

“Your skin is a barrier and it is doing its job. Healthy skin keeps things out but we really want these great medical ingredients to go into the skin. The Environ dermal roller creates these tiny microchannels after you just roll it on the skin. After that, I’ll put on my serums and maybe a mask – depending on what I’m feeling that day.”

-Aesthetic Experience Director Jill Hawkins in a recent interview with AmSpa’s Medical Spa Insider podcast

Deeply Exfoliate The Skin 

Perhaps the most instant benefit of using a derma roller is its exfoliation capabilities. Every stroke with the tool removes dead and dull skin cells, making way for new cells to form and shine. Out with the old, in with the new!

Stimulate Some Additional Hair Growth 

Our biological reparative processes can do some amazing things! When using a derma roller on the scalp or beard area, you’re essentially creating micro-tears near existing hair follicles. To heal these “injuries,” the body sends nutrient-rich blood to the site which promotes hair growth. 

Minimize The Appearance Of Stretch Marks & Scars

As the derma roller glides across scars or stretch marks, it breaks down the larger clumps of collagen that sit on the top layer. Your body, then, goes into its reparative process which increases blood flow and collagen production, resulting in smoother skin. 

It is important to remember that the size of needles you should use depends heavily on your unique circumstances. Lighter scars and blemishes call for 1mm needles, whereas deeper scars typically require 1.5mm needles to see an impact. 

Cleanliness & Effectiveness: The Steps To Properly Using A Derma Roller

1. Disinfect the roller
2. Wash the intended area of your skin
3. Begin rolling:
   • Roll in one direction
   • Lift up once you reach the end
   • Continue 6-7 more times
   • Roll perpendicularly to the first tracks & follow steps 2 – 3 
4. Wash the area again
5. Clean & disinfect your roller before storing
6. Continue with your normal skincare regimen

Not All Derma Rollers Are Created Equally 

These little tools are pretty versatile, as you can see! While you may be inspired to get rolling, it’s important to remember that derma rollers vary wildly in quality.

We were able to quickly find one on Amazon for as little as $8 but with low-cost options like these come some safety concerns. There is a risk of breakouts and even bacterial infections if you cannot easily and comprehensively clean your roller or if it is built using low-quality metals. Some value brand rollers quickly become dull which drastically reduces their efficacy. You also need to make sure that the length of the needles is right for you and your specific skin care goals. 

Environ is our preferred derma roller brand thanks to its versatility, longevity and surgical-grade materials. 

The Differences Between Professional Grade Treatments & At-Home Derma Rollers 

We endorse derma rollers because they put control back in the hands of our patients. They work great as a preventative skin care measure and show some decent effectiveness in mild situations. Proper usage can also prolong the great results you experience from the non-surgical procedures we perform. That said, we do not recommend the use of needles longer than .2mm because they may cause bleeding, which is what causes collagen induction and this should only be done at a medical practice by a provider.

There is also a stark difference between at-home derma rolling and professional-level treatments. Our providers have access to medical-grade technology that is more effective than what you can pick up in stores or on Amazon. These experts also routinely undergo rigorous training to ensure they’re always using the most advanced techniques the industry has to offer. Their dedication to the craft is matched only by how diligently they work with each patient to deliver incredible, more sustainable results. 

Microneedling: Get Derma Roller Results, But Quicker & Better

While retail derma rollers can remove dead skin cells and lead to some increased collagen production, nothing compares to the potency and power of microneedling. This treatment is completely customized to your skin and uses longer needles to get deeper into the skin, resulting in more collagen, more elastin, more blood flow and an all-around more noticeable end result – without having to remember to roll every 3 days (wait or was it once every week?). 

The body responds to this treatment and works to heal these micro-wounds. In doing so, new blood vessels are formed in the impacted area and collagen production is ramped up – sometimes by up to 400%. 

Rejuvenate Your Skin with Dermaplaning

Dermaplaning involves the use of a surgical blade to remove the entire top layer of skin, including dirt, dead cells and “peach fuzz.” This is often followed up by a revitalizing chemical peel or other relaxing facial treatment. And don’t worry: we uncover all areas of the skin. By getting that layer out of the way first, we prime your skin to take in the full infusion of nutrients. 

Use Lasers to Smooth Texture & Even Out Hyperpigmentation

Derma rolling can help smooth out fine lines, reduce acne scars and fix hyperpigmentation but it often requires months of diligence to get desired results. Even then, you may not see exactly what you want. Halo™ Laser Skin Resurfacing is an innovative anti-aging option that uses two different lasers to help you reach your goals within 2 to 5 days of treatment. Not only does Halo work faster, but the results also last substantially longer with less upkeep. 

Speed Up Hair Growth with Your Own Plasma

Many patients come across derma rolling as they’re researching ways to either maintain their current hair or stimulate new growth. While the tool can provide some assistance around the edges, it helps to have some extra firepower behind your efforts! One way to do that is by using your own platelet-rich plasma to reinvigorate dying follicles. Trained hair restoration specialists can safely extract your blood, centrifuge it to sort out the various components and inject the nutrient-dense plasma back into areas of thinning to help you retain what you’ve got – and even inspire some additional growth. 

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Have Additional Questions About Derma Rollers Or Any Of The Related Treatments?

Our experts are on standby to help further explain the proper technique when it comes to derma rolling and the benefits that can come from routine usage. Looking to skip the daily routine and jump right into incredible results from any of our medspa treatments? We can help you out there, too!